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How to shop vintage clothing?


Bonjour les amis!

The 17th edition of the Salon du Vintage took place last week-end in Paris. Vintage has been hot and popular for some time now and I do get several requests for vintage shopping every month so maybe it's a good time to share with you the vintage shopping made in Paris?

Follow the guide :)


The thrill is in the hunt but how to find good piece?...Vintage shopping can be tricky and scrary for neophytes so here are some tips to masterize it.





WHy shop vintage vs new?

First of all an obvious question...why should I buy vintage vs. new? A quality vintage garment or accessory can cost as much as current couture (hmmm a vintage Chanel or Hermes) so why would someone choose a pre-owned item over something brand new? Because it’s probably made better. A general rule of thumb, especially for higher-end designer pieces, is that the older the piece the higher the quality. There is usually more handwork, more attention to detail and a tendency for durability that you don’t see much any more in contemporary fashion. Not to mention that with a vintage designer item you are likely to have a unique piece that your neighbour won't own :).

WHat is the difference between vintage and thrift?
What is it that sets vintage clothing apart from simply used items? You can find great vintage items in thrift stores, but you shouldn’t find obvious thrift items in a vintage store. Vintage denotes something special—that an item has stood the test of time and has proven to remain relevant for any number of reasons—timelessness of style, [quality], historical or cultural significance or interesting provenance.

Start with a classic piece

If you’re a neophyte when it comes to vintage hunting, it’s worth seeking out something timeless to start, something classic and basic. You will then be able to wear it over and over again...a little black dress, a neutral color jacket, or an accessory: a clutch, a scarf...


don't pay attention to sizes

Sizing is completely different nowadays, and if there is a size label, the best option is to ignore it. Also to help you, some eras are fit better some body types.

Tall, slim women look great in clothes from the 1930s because it's cut on the bias (the grain of the fabric is diagonal and therefore, the fabric clings to the body).

The 1940s are great for curvy girls, because the tailoring is more defined at the waist and the clothes are cut more generously.

Petite on top looks great in everything because a lot of vintage clothing is cut small. You can wiggle into that Victorian jacket that was meant to be worn with a corset.

The 1950s is great for busty women. The cups are bigger, the silhouette was hourglass; think Marilyn Monroe. Men liked an eyeful in the '50s.

tailoring is ok but a lot of repairs is not worth

If you fall in love with something that doesn’t quite fit, remember that vintage items can always be nipped and tucked to make them perfect for you. Don’t be afraid to invest a little bit of money to have it properly tailored to your body. If you invest €25/€30 in having the cuffs shortened or the waist slightly taken in so that it’s not puffy, it can make the difference of looking frumpy to looking like it’s tailor-made :).

That said, there are items from another era that simply cannot be altered, so it pays to be aware of your body’s proportions. No matter how much you adore the fabric of a coat or the drape of a dress, if they’re too short or long-waisted it may not read right.

prefer fabric over labels
Labels are a plus but the most important thing is remains fabrics. Condition is of supreme importance. Vintage pieces often get brittle and dry and shatter. There’s nothing more heartbreaking than investing some money in something and having it fall apart on you. If a garment looks like it’s cracking, pulling, falling apart, or fading, it’s probably wise to leave it.Look for textiles that still have strength and integrity and garments that are in good repair, without any difficult or iffy mending to be done.
Look for clean clothing that smells good and isn’t heavily worn. Look for construction clues as signs of quality: boned bodices, hand sewing, flat lining, bound buttonholes, handset zippers, covered buttons, piped seams, bias-bound edges, bound seam allowances, silk linings—these are all telltale signs of quality construction in any era.

always check the armpits, the fastenings and the bottom of shoes

Before the days of deodorant, sweat had a habit of damaging fabric due to the acidic qualities of perspiration so make sure you check the armpits.

Double-check that none of the buttons are missing and the zips are working properly. This may seem like a no-brainer. Key areas to check fastenings are around the neck line where small buttons may be hidden under a collar, and also around the cuffs. Whilst you are there, make sure the belt is still attached. If there are belt loops and no belt.

More often than not, a heel tip will be missing. Check the leather around the buckle and strap for signs of wear and tear. If a leather strap looks cracked, it may break off easily. Make sure the shoe is not too bendy and will hold your weight – this can be achieved only by trying it on. In some cases the shoe’s sole can be reinforced, but this can be costly. Avoid shoes where the leather has stiffened, as they will be uncomfortable to wear.

TIP : ALWAYS HOLD GARMENTS UP TO THE LIGHT : by holding it up to the light you can instantly see any holes or repairs. The light will also shine through any patches where the fabric has become too thin and delicate. With woollen garments, check the elbows to make sure there is not excessive wear.

WHERE TO SHOP VINTAGE CLOTHES IN PARIS?

In Paris, most of vintage and thrift shops are in the Marais, however a few ones are spread in the rest of the city. To find out more, you can book my vintage tour (here) next time you are in town :). Unfortunately there are no charity shops in France.

Of course flea markets are great spots for vintage gems: Les Puces de Clignancourt, the largest and most touristy one. Good pieces but pricey. The Vanves market is small and more affordable.

You can also find some nice things online, main websites are:

  • ebay

  • 1stdibs.com (Marc Jacobs' fav)

  • beyondretro.com (70s especially)

  • fr.vestiairecollective.com

  • collectorsquare.com (high-end vintage)

  • cestmarobe.com (to rent a couture dress)

And don't forget, your vintage clothing search could begin at home...Your family’s closets might just be your best source and a wonderful way to connect to your own family’s history.

Happy shopping!

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